You use it to transfer your pile of deconstructed plaster to a contractor bag. The plaster crumbles straight down to the ground – creating a heap and a fog.Īs your pile of crumbled plaster starts to grow, and when it reaches about shin height, you pull out a snow or other shovel. In most cases, it doesn’t matter if you just scrape off the plaster and/or yank the lath right off while you’re at it. Of course, that’s not to mention the paint that has been chosen to cover it through the years.įeeling a little sly, you might grab a shingle remover and pry. Things get extremely dusty in this process.īeyond that, maybe you’ve considered questions about the lead content in the plaster itself (and its dangers, especially when released in airborne form). At minimum, you could sit a box fan in a window and point it outward. Plaster Removal Creates a Lot of Dustīest practices – you’d set up dust containment and perhaps a means of negative pressure ventilation. It’s a great way to take out some frustration and with it, removal seems to go twice as fast. Feeling tough, some might grab a sledge hammer. The most common and flat-out brutish way to go about removing plaster: Whack the wall with the claw of a hammer, work in a long pry bar and have at it. But from experience, I find instead that most plaster and wood lath surfaces are often easily twice as thick – around 3/4″. In terms of demolition, the best case scenario – your plaster is only ⅜” thick. The amount of debris and waste it produces is simply shocking. ~jb Removing Plaster in Old HousesĪny old house owner that has removed plaster knows just how, well, miserable it can be. And as always, I welcome constructive feedback on this technique in the Comments section at the bottom. It featured a procedure I used with a friend to neatly remove a section of plaster from a ceiling. This post is a rework from an essay originally published with the title Ten Hammers. I left a bulk of it in the Outtake below (jump to it clicking that link).
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